Hagi in Yamaguchi Prefecture and Tsuwano in Shimane Prefecture are revered as the “cradles of spirit,” towns that not only preserve the scenic legacy of the Edo period but also nurtured the young visionaries who fueled the Meiji Restoration. As you walk along quiet streets lined with white-walled homes and samurai residences, the experience becomes more than sightseeing—it offers profound moments of reflection and discovery through Japan’s living history.
Hagi: A Castle Town Echoing with the Spirit of the Meiji Restoration
Your historical journey begins in Hagi, located in northern Yamaguchi Prefecture. Once the political heart of the Mori Clan, this castle town flourished during the Edo period and still retains its original street grid and samurai residences. Today, Hagi is recognized as part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Sites of Japan’s Meiji Industrial Revolution,” and it remains steeped in the atmosphere of the late Edo era, where echoes of transformation still linger in the air.
A must-see is the Hagi Castle Ruins and the adjacent Shizuki Park. Although the castle keep no longer stands, the remaining stone walls and moats speak of its former scale and grandeur. Built to harmonize with the surrounding sea and mountains, the castle embodies the ingenuity and aesthetic sensibilities of Japan’s feudal age.
Just a short stroll away is the Horiuchi District, a quiet neighborhood filled with landmarks linked to leading figures of the Meiji Restoration such as Takasugi Shinsaku, Kido Takayoshi, and Itō Hirobumi. Modest yet dignified buildings like the Former Kubo Residence and Takasugi’s birthplace silently convey the determination of young men who once set out to reshape Japan’s future. Listening to local guides recount stories of their lives reveals a deeply human side of these historical heroes—something no textbook can fully capture.
Tsuwano: A Timeless Town Known as the “Little Kyoto of the San’in Region”
About an hour and a half by car or bus from Hagi, the mountain town of Tsuwano in Shimane Prefecture offers a peaceful retreat into Japan’s cultural heartland. Often called the “Little Kyoto of the San’in Region,” Tsuwano is known for its well-preserved streetscapes, gently flowing waterways filled with colorful carp, and rows of traditional buildings crowned with red-tiled roofs. Even for first-time visitors, there’s a nostalgic warmth in the air—perhaps because this town is so deeply rooted in the rhythms of daily life and the natural landscape.
The main street, Tonomachi-dori, is lined with cultural and historical landmarks, including the former domain school Yōrōkan, samurai residences, and the preserved home of the literary giant Mori Ōgai. This area reveals Tsuwano’s long-standing role as a center of education and literature. The Mori Ōgai Memorial Museum is particularly notable, offering insight into his multifaceted life not only as a celebrated writer, but also as a military doctor and public intellectual.
Another highlight is the Tsuwano Catholic Church, a rare example of Gothic-style architecture with traditional tatami mat flooring—a vivid symbol of Tsuwano’s unique blend of Western and Japanese cultural influences.
A Journey to Discover Conviction in Quiet Moments
A journey through Hagi and Tsuwano is not simply a tour of historical landmarks—it is an encounter with conviction, philosophy, and the spirit of those who helped shape modern Japan. These towns may not boast grand spectacle or dazzling attractions, but within their stillness lies the enduring presence of individuals who lived through times of great upheaval with unwavering purpose.
As you walk the stone-paved streets, you are invited to reflect on your own values and compare them with the ideals of a different era. Hagi and Tsuwano offer more than a cultural experience—they offer quiet inspiration. For travelers seeking depth, meaning, and introspection, these towns are truly worth the journey.