In Matsuyama, Ehime Prefecture—famously known as the setting of Natsume Soseki’s classic novel Botchan—history and literature intertwine to create a uniquely nostalgic atmosphere. At the heart of the city lie two cultural treasures: Dogo Onsen, one of Japan’s oldest hot springs, and Matsuyama Castle, a rare original castle keep that still stands proudly today.
Together, they offer more than sightseeing—they evoke the refined spirit of the Meiji era and the timeless elegance of Japanese tradition. Simply strolling through the city, you’re gently enveloped in a “romantic reverie,” where past and present blend in quiet harmony.
Day 1: A Leisurely Stroll Through Dogo Onsen – A Timeless Hot Spring Town
Begin your journey from JR Matsuyama Station or Matsuyama Airport, and hop on a charming streetcar bound for Dogo Onsen Honkan. Built in 1894, this three-story wooden bathhouse is a masterpiece of Meiji-era architecture and a designated Important Cultural Property of Japan. Just standing before its stately façade stirs a sense of wonder and anticipation.
Though portions of the building are currently under restoration, the bathhouse remains open, allowing visitors to experience the legendary Kami no Yu—the “Bath of the Gods.” Soaking in its stone tub feels like immersing yourself in over 1,300 years of onsen tradition.
After your bath, don a yukata and wander through the quaint streets of the onsen town. Discover charming spots like the animated Botchan Karakuri Clock and the soothing Hojoen Foot Bath—perfect for post-soak relaxation.
As evening falls, settle into a ryokan or hotel near the Honkan or its elegant annex, Asuka-no-Yu. Savor a seasonal kaiseki dinner with local sake, and let the slow, gentle pace of Dogo wash over you.
Day 2: Discovering Matsuyama Castle and Its Literary Legacy – A City of Castles and Words
On your second day, head into central Matsuyama to explore Matsuyama Castle, perched atop Mt. Katsuyama at 132 meters above sea level. One of only twelve original castle keeps remaining in Japan, this historic fortress offers a rare glimpse into feudal life and defense architecture. Take the ropeway or lift to the summit, where sweeping views of the city and the Seto Inland Sea await from the castle tower.
The surrounding complex—with its inner bailey, stone walls, and fortified gates—speaks to the ingenuity of the samurai era. In spring, the castle grounds transform into a beloved cherry blossom viewing spot, drawing visitors from near and far.
After descending into the castle town, dive into Matsuyama’s literary roots with a visit to the Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum, inspired by Ryotaro Shiba’s historical novel, and the Shiki Memorial Museum, dedicated to the celebrated haiku poet Masaoka Shiki, a native son of the city. Literary spirit flows throughout Matsuyama—haiku posts are scattered across Dogo Onsen and other areas, inviting travelers to pen a verse and leave behind a poetic memory of their journey.
A Taste of Matsuyama – Local Flavors and Charming Streets
No trip to Matsuyama is complete without savoring its local cuisine. Be sure to try Tai-meshi, the region’s signature sea bream rice dish, served in two distinct styles: either cooked together with seasoned rice, or enjoyed sashimi-style with dashi broth poured over. Both are culinary highlights worth seeking out.
You’ll also find delicious local treats like Jakoten (fried fish cake) and citrus sweets made with Iyo oranges, adding a refreshing touch to your gourmet exploration.
In the Dogo area and the bustling Okaido Shopping Arcade, you’ll discover stylish cafés, craft shops, and artisan boutiques—perfect for a leisurely stroll that blends shopping with sightseeing. If time allows, consider venturing to nearby spiritual landmarks such as Isaniwa Shrine and Ishite-ji Temple, where centuries of history and serene surroundings await.
Matsuyama – Where Hot Springs, Literature, and History Converge
Let the soothing waters of Dogo Onsen relax your body, gaze up at the historic grandeur of Matsuyama Castle, and stroll through a city shaped by poetry and prose. Known as the “City of Botchan,” Matsuyama offers more than just sightseeing—it invites you into a stay enriched by culture, emotion, and timeless charm.
Here, nostalgia and modernity blend seamlessly, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere that lingers long after your visit. In this city where words and history flow as gently as hot spring waters, you may find yourself not only exploring—but truly feeling Japan.